CHALLENGE THE CHEESEMONGER: Indie Füde
Cheesemongers are the lifeblood of our industry, the link between cheesemakers and customers, so each month our Chedditor-at-large Keith Kendrick taps into their wisdom with a special order.
Johnny McDowell – Indie Füde, Comber & Belfast, Northern Ireland
THE CHALLENGE
“Northern Ireland often flies under the radar when it comes to British cheeses. IN FACT, many don’t make it across the Irish sea. As a relatively immature cheesemaking industry, it’s time to put them firmly on the cheese map of Britain. Over to Johnny…”
JOHNNY’S RESPONSE
“For this challenge I’d like to show off our big and bold blues, all produced by very talented people from across Northern Ireland. These are our best sellers, and show how far the industry has come in such a short space of time, built on the Irish traditions of travelling, being highly skilled, inquisitive… and having the world’s best dairy! Kearney Blue is quite a unique soft blue, creamy and mildly spiced with a rind reflective of the forts built on top of the rolling drumlins in Co. Down. Young Buck and Sperrin Blue both take their inspiration from Stilton, one made with raw milk by Mike Thompson in Ards, and the other by an American, Julie Hickey at the base of the Sperrin mountains.
THE CHEESES
Kearney Blue – Farmview Dairies
Young Buck – Mike’s Fancy Cheese
Sperrin Blue – Dart Mountain Cheese
OUR CHEDDITOR-AT-LARGE’S VERDICT
“It baffles me, but blue cheeses can be divisive. I have colleagues at Good Food who love cheese, but hate blues. So I persuaded them to have a taste of Johnny’s selection. Their verdict was overwhelmingly positive. “Umami”, “Incredibly creamy”, “Complex” were just some of the comments. For me, I found the variety in a style that is simply called "blue” so surprising, each with a character all of its own. It’s just a shame that these cheeses often don’t cross the Irish Sea. But I implore you to seek them out. You will be rewarded.”
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