CHALLENGE THE CHEESEMONGER: Calder Cheesehouse
Cheesemongers are the lifeblood of our industry, the link between cheesemakers and customers, so each month our Chedditor-at-large Keith Kendrick taps into their wisdom with a special order.
Jay Hickson – Calder Cheesehouse, Todmorden, West Yorkshire
THE CHALLENGE
“I’ve known Jay – a former Paxton & Whitfield prodigy - for years, ever since he put together a cheeseboard for Easy Cook, one of the mags I edit. I’ve challenged him many times but never actually asked: “What are your favourite cheeses and why?”
JAY’S RESPONSE
“These cheeses are my favourites for a variety of reasons. Jamie Montgomery was the first cheesemaker I visited, and listening to him talk about his cheese got me hooked, while Stinking Bishop felt like a bold step into the wild world of washed rind continental style cheeses. When a freshly cut Dorset Blue Vinny fills the shop with the aroma of warm digestive biscuits, it’s a true wonder! Golden Cross was an introduction to flavours and textures I didn't imagine in cheese - bright, lemony citrus and a gentle, fleshy downy rind. Finally, when pushed to name my favourite, Gorwydd Caerphilly is often my answer. Not the strongest, richest, nor most interesting cheese, but a PERFECT example of its kind.”
THE CHEESES
Montgomery Cheddar - Montgomery’s Cheese
Stinking Bishop - Charles Martell & Son
Dorset Blue Vinny - Dorset Blue Vinny
Golden Cross - Golden Cross Cheese
Gorwydd Caerphilly - The Trethowan Brothers
OUR CHEDDITOR-AT-LARGE’S VERDICT
“There’s a valuable life lesson here: always trust your cheesemonger’s preferences. Jay’s selection is a beautiful balance of hard, crumbly, blue, goaty and washed rind. The Stinking Bishop leapt out most for me. It’s been a while since I’ve had it and its umami meatiness blew my socks off. I implore everyone to ask their cheesemonger for their favourites.”
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