This month, The Real Cheese Project’s Cheese of the Month is Thelma’s Caerffili from Caws Cenarth in West Wales — a cheese that represents far more than a recipe. It is a link to Welsh food heritage, a celebration of farmhouse cheesemaking, and a reminder that some traditions are worth fighting to preserve.

When I sat down with Carwyn Adams, one of Britain’s most respected farmhouse cheesemakers, I expected to talk about success. Instead, we talked about grass, milk, family and the responsibility of looking after something that almost disappeared.