HERO CHEESE Royal Basset Blue

Royal Basset Blue, Photo Credit - TRCP

Championing Artisan Cheese: Ceri Cryer, Brinkworth Dairy, and the Quiet Power of Royal Basset Blue

The charming - Ceri Cryer

A Slice of Tradition, a Dollop of Personality, and a Dash of Dairy Drama

History

Picture the rolling fields of Brinkworth Dairy: cows grazing with the casual confidence of runway models, the air rich with the promise of cheese so good, Jane Austen herself might have paused her witty banter for a taste. Meet Ceri Cryer, farmer, cheesemaker, potter and the dairy world’s answer to a rockstar with a spatula.

Brinkworth isn’t just a farm, it’s a legacy. The family has been nurturing the land since 1910, when Ceri’s great-grandfather William started the country’s first pedigree Friesian herd. That same herd still supplies the milk for every cheese crafted on the farm, making "continuity" the secret ingredient in every bite. “We’re not chasing volume. We’re working with what the land and cows give us,” Ceri says, which is pretty much the cheese equivalent of ‘quality over quantity’, but tastier.

And speaking of taste, Brinkworth’s revival of Wiltshire Loaf is what happens when history meets a cheese lover’s determination. Once referenced in Jane Austen’s writing and nearly lost to the industrial revolution (which, let’s be honest, did nothing for flavour), Wiltshire Loaf is back thanks to Ceri’s refusal to let a good cheese fade into oblivion. “It needed time, skill, and local milk,” Ceri explains, proving that some things are worth the wait... especially if they’re delicious.

But don’t expect a Pinterest perfect rehashing of the past. Ceri’s philosophy? “You can’t just copy the past, you have to understand it, then make it work for today.” Brinkworth’s cheeses strike that delicate balance between honouring tradition and embracing responsibility. It’s cheese with a conscience, and possibly a time machine.

Beautiful British Pedigree Friesians

Milk

At Brinkworth, milk isn’t just an ingredient, it’s a character in its own right. With the farm’s single herd, daily variations in protein and fat aren’t smoothed out; they’re celebrated. “That variation is where flavour lives," says Ceri. "If the milk changes, the make has to change with it.” Translation: every cheese is a little adventure, a dairy surprise party waiting to be unwrapped.

The magic continues with milk processed on site while still warm (imagine the cheese equivalent of a fresh baked cookie), keeping flavours at their peak. The cows? They’re free to pick their own salad bar from the fields, ensuring the milk is as unique as their personalities. Pasteurisation isn’t just a checkbox, it’s a thoughtful response to local health needs. Brinkworth’s cheese is as ethical as it is delicious.

Photo Credit - TRCP

Royal Basset Blue

Now, let’s talk Royal Basset Blue, the cheese with a name fit for a crown and a flavour fit for your favourite cracker. After years of tinkering (and probably some noble taste testing), Ceri perfected this blue cheese by 2012. “Blue cheese is very unforgiving if you get the early stages wrong,” she warns, but rest assured, Royal Basset Blue is generous, approachable, and decidedly non threatening. “I wanted a blue that people wouldn’t be afraid of,” Ceri says, making this cheese the friendly neighbour in the world of intimidating blues.

Each wheel is hand pierced, lovingly turned, and pampered through its early life, proving that in cheese, as in life, a little TLC goes a long way. Brinkworth’s focus remains on quality and ethics, working with independent retailers who sell cheese with stories, not just price tags.

Education and engagement

At the heart of Brinkworth. Farm visits, talks, and events invite you to get your hands (and taste buds) dirty, reconnecting with the craft and care that go into every wheel. It’s cheese that comes with a backstage pass.

Handmade cheese, deeply rooted in place and shaped by nature, is one of Britain’s quiet culinary superpowers. At Brinkworth, it’s a reminder that sometimes, progress is about savouring what you already have, preferably with a wedge of Royal Basset Blue in hand.

Ceri Cryer

Quick Fire: Ceri Cryer, Brinkworth Dairy

• Best moment in cheesemaking? Getting the curd right. Cheese fans know: it’s the dairy version of hitting a home run.

• Hardest thing about blue cheese? Timing. Like baking soufflé, no do overs!

• One myth about artisan cheese? That it’s inconsistent. Actually, it’s as precise as a Swiss watchjust not factory made.

• Milk or make – which matters more? Milk. Always milk. The dairy diva takes the spotlight.

• Biggest challenge for British cheesemakers? Fair pricing and being understood. Because, let’s face it, cheese deserves respect.

• What makes Royal Basset Blue different? It’s designed to be kind, not aggressive. The cheese you bring home to meet your parents.

• If you weren’t making cheese? “Honestly can’t imagine not working with milk.” Milk forever, cheese for always.